c/farriers

Saw a horse go from lame to sound in 8 weeks after a simple hoof angle fix

I was trimming a quarter horse gelding last month that had a really low heel and long toe (like, a 40 degree angle on the front hooves). The owner said he'd been off for about three months, just not moving right. We brought the heel back, shortened the toe, and got him to a proper 52 degrees. Just got a call yesterday, the owner says he's moving like a dream now, no more tripping or short stride. It's a good reminder that sometimes the basics (you know, like correct angles) make the biggest difference, not some fancy shoe or pad. Has anyone else had a case where a simple correction made that much of a turnaround?

Appreciation post: A vet in Cheyenne told me my quarter crack patches were failing because I was trimming the foot too short before applying.

I started leaving a bit more sole and wall, and the next three held solid. Anyone have a different method for prepping a foot for a patch?

The week my apprentice dropped a hot shoe on my boot

It was last Tuesday at the Miller farm outside of Spokane, and we were working on a big draft horse with some serious quarter cracks. My apprentice, Jake, got nervous when the horse shifted and let a freshly shaped shoe slip right off the anvil horn. It landed square on my steel toe, which was fine, but the hot clinch burned a hole right through my leather upper. The whole day went downhill from there, with two more horses being way more fidgety than usual. Has anyone else had a day where one small mistake just seemed to set the whole tone?

Had to pick between a new anvil or fixing my old truck this month

My 150 pound Trenton has a chipped heel and the repair would cost about $500. The truck needed new brakes, which was almost the same price. I went with the anvil because I have three big draft horse clients lined up for next week and need a solid face. Just finished dressing it down and it's holding a perfect edge now. Anyone else ever put their gear before their ride?

Bought a cheap hoof stand online and it broke in a month

Saw a 'professional' hoof stand on a discount site for $80, which was way less than my usual brand. The first few trims it felt a bit wobbly, but I figured it just needed breaking in. Last Tuesday, the whole adjustable arm snapped clean off while I was working on a draft cross, nearly dropped his foot. Wasted the $80 and had to finish the job the hard way. Anyone know a good, solid stand that won't quit on you?

A quick fix for a hoof that wouldn't seat right on a big draft horse

Had a Percheron last week that kept rocking on its new front shoe, no matter how I trimmed. The owner was getting worried. I remembered an old timer saying to try a dab of silicone sealant on the hoof wall before nailing, just to fill tiny gaps. I put a thin line around the top edge, set the shoe, and it seated perfectly. The sealant squeezed out and I peeled it off after. Has anyone else tried something like this on a tough fit?

I finally got a stubborn quarter crack to hold by using a thin strip of fiberglass under the shoe pad.

I finally had a shoe blow out on a draft horse in the middle of a trim

I was working on a Percheron in Lancaster last month, and the old shoe I was pulling just shattered under the pull. A big piece shot off and hit my apron. I had to calm the horse down fast, then use my nippers to carefully break the rest of the shoe off in smaller pieces. Has anyone else had a shoe explode like that on a big horse, and what's your go-to move to keep everyone safe?

Had a horse with a persistent quarter crack that just would not hold a patch.

Tried every standard patch and glue for months, nothing lasted more than two weeks. Out of pure frustration, I mixed a little bit of super fine copper mesh into my acrylic filler before setting the patch. That was six months ago, and the crack is still solid and growing out clean. Has anyone else tried mixing something into their filler for extra hold?

That Monday morning when the forge wouldn't light and the truck tire was flat

Got to the first farm near Springfield and my propane forge just sputtered out, wouldn't hold a flame. Spent an hour trying to get it going before I gave up and used the old coal forge in their barn, which was full of cobwebs. Then I walked back to my truck and saw the rear driver's side tire was completely flat, probably from a nail in their gravel drive. Had to change it in the mud, making me late for my next three appointments. Anyone have a reliable propane forge brand they'd recommend that can handle a damp morning?

Shoutout to the old timer who showed me a better way to handle a quarter crack

I've always been super careful with quarter cracks, taking my time and using a lot of filler. Last week, an older farrier at the state fair watched me work on a horse and said, 'You're making it too hard on yourself.' He showed me how to use a small Dremel with a specific bit to clean the crack, then pack it with a mix of acrylic and cotton fibers before setting a shoe. I tried it on a tough case yesterday, and the whole job took half the time. The hold looks solid, and the horse walked out sound. Has anyone else used a Dremel for prep work on cracks like that?

Vent: I tried a new hoof stand for a month and went right back to my old one

Bought a fancy lightweight stand with a rotating head, thinking it would be easier on my back during a full day of trims. After 30 days of use, I found it just didn't have the solid feel of my old 15 pound steel stand, especially with a big draft horse that likes to lean. That extra weight and wide base kept everything steady when I needed it most. Anyone else try a 'modern' stand and find the old ways just work better?

Warning: I keep seeing new guys at the county fair in Springfield set their anvil stands way too high.

After watching a kid strain his back for three hours last weekend, I realized a stand at the wrong height forces you into a bad swing and will wreck your shoulder over time, so what's your go-to method for finding that sweet spot?

Am I the only one who got schooled by a client's 10-year-old kid?

I was trimming a quarter horse over in Bend last Thursday, and the owner's son was watching me work. He just asked, 'Why do you rasp the hoof that way instead of the other way?' and I gave my usual answer about the angle. He said, 'But my science teacher says friction works better when you push...' and it just stuck in my head. How do you explain the basics of our work to someone who's just curious?

Question about using a new rasp style on quarter cracks

For years, I used a standard farrier's rasp on quarter cracks, just smoothing the edges like I was taught. About six months ago, I saw a video from a clinic in Kentucky where the guy used a different pattern, more of a cross-hatch motion with a finer cut file. I tried it on a tough case, a big draft horse named Gus, and the difference was night and day. The old way just seemed to seal the surface, but this new method actually helped the hoof wall grow together better from the inside. I think the lighter touch doesn't stress the compromised area as much. Now I keep two different rasps in my truck just for this job. Has anyone else found a specific tool or technique that works better for stubborn quarter cracks?

Shoutout to the old guy at the Spokane fairgrounds who showed me a better way to set a shoe

Last week, I finally got a tricky draft horse to stand still for a full reset using his method from 3 years ago... anyone else have a little trick that just clicked for them later on?

Had a horse in Kentucky last month that would not stand still for the life of me. What's your go-to trick for a real fidgeter?

Was reading an old farrier manual from the 1800s and saw they used to charge 25 cents a shoe

Found it at a used book sale in Omaha, and the price list for a full set of shoes was a dollar. My apprentice asked if we could go back to those rates. What's the most surprising old-time fact you've come across in this trade?

I was sure that new hoof testers were just a gimmick until I tried a pair in Boise.

A guy at the Idaho Horse Expo let me use his 'Flex-Touch' testers on a tricky quarter horse, and the extra feel in the handles showed a subtle abscess spot I'd missed. I bought a set right there after seeing the difference on three more horses that afternoon. Has anyone else switched tools and been surprised by how much it helped find problems?

Can we talk about switching from a standard rasp to a four-in-hand for finishing work?

I used to spend an extra 15 minutes per horse smoothing the hoof wall with a standard rasp after trimming, but I switched to a four-in-hand about two years ago after seeing one at a clinic in Lexington. The change cut my finishing time in half and gives a much cleaner edge, especially on those tough quarter cracks. Has anyone else made a similar switch and noticed a big difference in their daily workflow?

Found a better way to handle a nervous draft horse in tight spaces

I had a big Belgian mare in a small barn stall who kept pinning her ears and shifting when I tried to pick up her back feet. Instead of fighting her, I started by just leaning my shoulder into her hip for a full minute without even touching her leg. She relaxed, let out a big sigh, and then let me lift her foot with no fuss. It took a bit longer but saved a lot of stress for both of us. Do you have any other quiet methods for horses that are claustrophobic?

A vet in Boise told me my quarter crack trim was 'like putting a band-aid on a broken leg' last fall.

Update: I spent $800 on a digital hoof mapping system last year

Honestly, everyone was raving about how it would change my trimming, but it just sits in my truck. The software is slow and the readings feel off on uneven ground. I went back to my trusty calipers and eye in under a month. Has anyone else tried one of these and actually made it work for their daily jobs?

Got my first solo shoeing job for a local riding school last week

Three years ago I was just cleaning stalls at the same place, and last month the head farrier, Mike, finally let me take over for their gentle giant, a draft cross named Gus. It felt good to see the school owner smile when she checked my work. Anyone else get that first real nod from a place you started at the bottom?

Hot take: I was trimming hoof walls way too short for years

I was working on a big draft horse in Spokane last Tuesday and the owner, a vet, asked why I wasn't leaving more sole depth. He showed me how my old method was making the horse sore on gravel. I've been using the 1/4 inch rule ever since, but is there a better gauge for different terrains?